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DURING THE LAST HALF of the Twentieth Century this depository of nature's treasures became little more than an eddy in the backwaters of Northern California - so far removed from the consciousness of outsiders it had become "Northern California's Best Kept Secret." My, how times have changed.
Today, Lake County has grabbed the attention of a new group of admirers - agriculturalists, developers, entrepreneurs, home buyers, pro bass fishermen, and tourists with wide and varied interests. The onslaught has prompted one old-timer to predict, "If you loved the good old days, wait a minute ... they're coming back!"
Lake County was once a playground of the rich and famous. In the late 1800's, at a time when travel was torturous, many of Hollywood's best-known stars would travel by ocean steamer from Los Angeles to San Francisco, then by railroad to Hopland, then by overland stage to Lakeport, then by steam boat across Clear Lake, and finally by stage again to fabled hot spring resorts high in the foothills above Nice and Lucerne. During the first half of the Twentieth Century, visitors from all over the world came by car to Hoberg's Resort and Forest Lake Resort and a myriad of other family-oriented destinations on Cobb Mountain and along the shores of Clear Lake. They would stay for a week or two and shed the cares and frustrations of their work-a-day existence in "the big city."
As the camper and the trailer brought a new mobility to family vacation plans, however, Lake County's offer of rest and relaxation and a little quality time with one's family became less appealing and visitor days fell off markedly. Of course, the supply of quality rooms and fine dining facilities also dwindled.
At about the same time (the mid-fifties), another blow befell Lake County as summer-time invasions of a species of gnat unique to this area became intolerable, driving still more tourists away. Efforts to control the pests resulted in undesirable effects on fish and water fowl and by the mid-sixties there were no egrets, no blue herons, no seagulls and few bass, catfish, perch or crappie. The State of California put an end to the use of chemicals for the purpose of pest eradication and local officials everywhere were forced to search for more natural solutions. In Lake County, the search ended with the introduction of a fingerling fish called the Mississippi Silverside. These little wonders feed on plankton growing among the tules along the shore of the lake. Plankton, it turns out, is also the gnats' main food source. The competition has resulted in their near elimination. Happily, there was another consequence growing out of the introduction of Mississippi Silversides. The fingerlings are a food source for large mouth bass and the population of this popular game fish has become so large that, today, Clear Lake ranks as the number one bass fishing lake in the western United States.
Perhaps the most beneficial result has been the return of aquatic bird life. These days, Rodman Slough (located on the northern shore of Clear Lake at the mouth of Middle Creek where it empties into the lake between Lakeport and Nice on the Nice-Lucerne Cutoff) is an easily reached mecca for bird watchers and naturalists. Blue Heron abound there and it is not unusual to sight Egrets, Pelicans, Osprey and even nesting Bald Eagles. Other excellent locations for bird sightings are Anderson Marsh State Historic Park (Hwy 53, Lower Lake); the Cache Creek access trail to BLM lands (five miles east of Hwy 20/Hwy 53 intersection); Boggs Mountain State Forest (Hwy 175, Cobb); Borax Lake (Sulphur Bank Drive, Clearlake); Clear Lake State Park (5300 Soda Bay Road, Kelseyville); Highland Springs Recreation Area (Highland Springs Road off Hwy 29 south of Lakeport); and Lakeside Community Park (Park Drive off Soda Bay Road, south of Lakeport).
Local residents enjoy the mild yet definite four-season quality of life in Lake County. Spectacular year-round weather and the cleanest air in California, provide Lake County with a rich and varied agricultural tradition. Before Prohibition, this area had more acreage devoted to wine grapes than did the Napa Valley. Then, beginning in the 1930's and until recently, walnuts and pears dominated local farmers' crop choices. Today, due to a variety of market conditions, wine grapes have again become a major factor in the local economy. Pear orchards have given way to grapes, and hundreds of acres of wildlands have seen their native manzanita shrubs replaced by vines. The presence of Mount Konocti, resting like a jewel in the midst of all this beauty, also has something to do with the new wine grape industry. As one result of its volcanic eruption many thousands of years ago, vast areas of Lake County consist of red volcanic soil, ideal for the cultivation of red wine grapes. Viticulturists and wine makers have responded to these conditions with enthusiasm.
It is well to remember we are here but a little while - the earth and the water, the trees and the air were here when we came and will remain when we go. While we can, we are privileged to "borrow" nature's bounty as we find it and are obliged to leave it in the same condition. Clear Lake may be the oldest lake in North America. Scientific evidence has proven it to be at least 150,000 years old, and some suggest lakes have existed at the site for 2.5 million years. The lake averages less than 30 feet deep and, while most shallow lakes fill with silt and become land mass, Clear Lake has stayed the same depth through thousands of years because the bottom is always shifting, preventing silt build-up. With a surface area of more than 43,000 acres and a capacity of 1,155,000 acre feet, the water temperature averages 61 degrees (reaching as high as 80 degrees in summer). The water is clear for much of the year, but can, at times, turn to a bluish green. This is due to a rich mix of nutrients in the water. These same nutrients are what make Clear Lake so rich in fish and other aquatic life. The shoreline consists primarily of tule beds. There are dozens of private docks along the shoreline, but there are also a great many public launching facilities which are available free of charge. The fish population includes large mouth bass, catfish, crappie, bluegill, a native fish called "hitch," and several varieties of minnows. A large natural vent, approximately 15 feet in diameter, has been located in the lake extending down to a depth of over 200 feet. Water flows from the vent and the origin of both the vent itself and the water flowing from it are the subjects of an ongoing study by geologists.
Lake County is one place where you can look up and see blue sky rather than the grey-beige haze hanging over much of the state's industrialized areas. As we mentioned earlier, Lake County enjoys the cleanest air in California. For 17 consecutive years, the Lake County Air Basin has met or exceeded air quality standards set by the California Air Resources Board and is, in fact, the only area in California with that distinction. In the summer, air temperatures vary from an average high of 95 to an average low of 57. In the winter, highs average in the 50's and average lows are in the 30's. Expect a number of days over 100 in the summer. Average humidity in the summer is 30 percent and 50 percent in the winter. Rainfall in the Clear Lake basin averages 25 inches per year, however Cobb Mountain and the Middletown area experience much higher amounts than do other areas of the county. There can be a modest snowfall in Lake County and on Cobb Mountain it may stay on the ground for several days at a time.
For those in the Sacramento area and from the upper and central valley, access is easiest via Hwy 20 from Interstate 5 at Williams. The drive from Sacramento is just over 100 miles and takes about two hours. From Alameda, Contra Costa, Solano and Napa Counties, take Hwy 29 over St Helena Mountain (a twisting turning eight-mile excursion) into Middletown. From there, the visitor may choose to turn on Hwy 175 over Cobb Mountain (an enchanting drive through a pine forest) ending in the Kelseyville area; or continue on Hwy 29 to its intersection with Hwy 53 at Lower Lake. Hwy 53 will take you to the City of Clearlake. Hwy 29 continues north to Kelseyville and Lakeport. From San Francisco, Marin, Sonoma and Mendocino counties, take Hwy 175 from Hopland (19 miles of twists, turns, and spectacular views of vineyards on the Mendocino County side and of Clear Lake on the Lake County side) or Hwy 20 from just north of Ukiah (a much easier road to negotiate with fewer scenic rewards).
Clear Lake is 1326 feet above sea level and Mount Konocti rises to an elevation of nearly 4700 feet. Geologists believe lava flows from the mountain were regular occurrences from 2.2 million years ago until about 10,000 years ago. The volcano is now dormant, but numerous hot springs and The Geysers geothermal power generating facility remain as constant reminders of the hot, molten earth that simmers below.
Two hospitals, one at each end of the county (Sutter Lakeside Hospital in Lakeport, and Adventist Health Redbud Community Hospital in the city of Clearlake), offer emergency services. The Lake County Sheriffs Boat Patrol is available on Clear Lake to help you in time of emergency. If you need help, dial 911.
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